In my friends area of East Sussex High Weald ancient woodland, at least five examples of a strange plant have recently appeared. I was at a loss on seeing this broomrape-like plant until back at home this week I managed to track it down. It is Toothwort (Lathraea squamaria). There are only six recorded locations for it in the county, these not including this site, so a good find!
Toothwort is a highly unique plant: all Broomrape family plants steal nutrition from neighbouring plants and also assimilate themselves, but toothwort is the only one that is fully parasitic. The species’ scientific name means ‘hiding’, and indeed most of this completely non-chlorophyllous plant’s life happens out of sight under the ground. Toothwort’s rootstock’s branches have sucking nodules (haustoria) between the branches which attach early in the spring to the host plant’s rootstock. This thankless task is on this occasion performed by hazel or hornbeam? Occasionally lime, ash, maple or alder are used. Scaly leaves next to the ground help toothwort dissipate water, which improves the plant’s ability to suck nutrition from the host plant.
Following government advice, and discussions with my dear friend Helen, I and my puss Goldie, have temporarily moved out of St.Leonards and are self-isolating with Helen at her beautiful cottage deep in the rural countryside of the High Weald. I have lots, indeed more than enough to keep me busy – gardening, working on the advanced draft of my autobiography, reading and taking walks in the woods with her three handsome Gordon Setter dogs.
The property is set within an extensive garden with a stream flowing through it and additionally there are four acres of a large adjoining block of ancient woodland. This is composed mainly of ash, with mature hornbeam, oak and beech with an understorey of hazel. More about this woodland as this rolling blog continues…
A view of the woods during mid-March.
Mid-March. The wood has been so wet this past winter! Being situated on Ashdown Clay which provides little drainage, it’s been tricky walking along the paths but during the past week, the sunshine and drying breezes have transformed matters, we now being able to wear boots instead of the ubiquitous wellies! This weekend, being on north-facing slope, the cottage and the woods are being buffeted by a strong and quite cold north-easterly wind, with sunshine and hail, making the air feel relatively rather bitter; we’ve resorted to firing-up the wood burner!
Monday, March 23 and another harbinger of spring made itself known – a chiffchaff calling from the tall willows and birches on the edge of the garden area. In the woods this week the primroses at the top of the wood look resplendent with their massed two-tone pale yellow flowers being in full bloom.Small patches of the tiny, delicate moscatel are in flower with their minuscule green and yellow flowers forming small patches. Hornbeam trees and the few hawthorn are now sporting small, delicate light-green leaves that are growing by the day. Hornbeam forms almost pure stands in other sections of the wood; soil or possibly past harvesting practices causing the difference?
Monday, Mar 30. Heard my first blackcap of the year. Carried out a lot more gardening this week – I’ve worked off my small tum but the trouble is I fall asleep in front of the tv!
Friday, Apr 3. More gardening including felling a small ash tree with only a bowsaw – phew! Carried out some repairs to the revetment to the stream that flows under the footbridge to the cottage, and on through the garden. A hum from the bees in the tall willows was easily audible today. The coming anticyclone and its accompanying warmth and southerly winds should bring quite a fall of migrants over the coming days. Reliably informed that the migration has been slow so far this spring.
Saturday, Apr 4. The first warm and sunny day of spring! sat outside late afternoon in shirt sleeves watching the birds – great and blue tits, lesser woodpecker, chaffinch and coal tit. Counted only four aircraft in about an hour, blissfully peaceful!
Monday, Apr 6. After carrying out a large food shop in Crowborough we drove back over Ashdown Forest; the car parks were very quiet. Gorse in flower; other areas of gorse having been cut, the Conservators of the Forest appear to have a monumental battle upon their hands fight the large areas of gorse. I consider they should resort to the traditional practice of selective burns of small areas. Conversely, reading in the RSPB’s latest update on their local reserves, they are going to create enclosures at Broadwater Warren and plant gorse. I wonder if future wardens of the reserve will be riled by this introduction! They have also discovered that they have the uncommon potter wasp, the nearest colony previously in Surrey.
Wednesday, Apr 8. Saw my first brimstone butterfly today; they are not so common hereabouts? Looking through the woods, there is now a green haze with the millions of tiny leaves unfolding on the trees, especially the hornbeam and hazel.
Thursday, Apr 9. Orange-tip butterfly seen for first time. While sitting on the patio at about 6pm, did I fleetingly see a cuckoo fly over (or a kestrel)? Have today started renovating a teak outdoor table; I bought on-line, a set of cabinetmakers scrapers and made a start on what will be a slow process – an antidote to self-isolation!
Friday, Apr 10. Good Friday. Saw my first holly blue butterfly today.
Saturday, Apr 11. Have finished queaking the long chapter in my autobio concerning my 20 years of being involved with using Exmoor ponies for conservation grazing. Carried out two repairs to the deer fencing around our woodland. The neighbouring woodland has little understorey as the deer browse-off nearly all of the young saplings and flowers. (See the two following pics).
Sunday, Apr 12. Easter Sunday. First small white butterfly seen, temperature reaching into the low 20’s C. Road was very quiet today there being no shops open; very few aircraft seen today including two into Gatwick. We spent much of the day sitting on the patio overlooking the woods, finishing off with taking dinner there in the early evening.
Monday, Apr 13. Bank Holiday. A strong, cold NE wind today with the sun not appearing until late-morning. We spent a couple of hours in the afternoon plotting and marking out the un-fenced section of Helen’s boundary in the woodland.
Sunday, Apr 19. This morning we went for a walked in the main part of the wood that is not owned by Helen and is in effect, abandoned.
It contains a few more substantial oaks and beech’s and plenty of middle-sized hornbeam and ash but little ground vegetation or saplings – anything edible being eaten by deer (they excluded form our part of the wood). Bluebells are however are now putting in an appearance. Found several largish medieval iron ore quarries (see below) and a piece of iron slag; hundreds of years ago this wood would have been a hive of industry. Will go back tomorrow and take some pictures. It’s like entering another world – on the face of it, appearing untouched by man and no outside of the wood sounds whatsoever – mystical!
Sunday, April 26. Thought I may have heard a garden warbler singing? Along a footpath just outside the boundary of the wood, I saw my first small copper and comma butterflies; also found the showy marsh marigold in a nearby boggy area. I shall be returning home tomorrow, so am signing-off this particular blog.
Today, I sent the e-mail below to fifty of the longer serving pony Lookers – volunteers who (used to) check the Exmoor ponies on a regular basis come rain, wind or snow. I have hesitated in the tense of the last sentence as I gain the impression that many of the Lookers have been made redundant by the pony trust or sadly fallen by the wayside through lack of communication.
The first 15 ponies about to reach Drusillas roundabout after travelling from Exmoor.
There has been a lot of disquiet in recent weeks about flooding in the Cuckmere valley and also the build-up of shingle within the river mouth. See my previous post concerning the sad demise of the Cuckmere meanders area.
On Wednesday, November 5th I did go and view the river mouth and it looks quite different to how it used to be, that is, discharging directly straight out into Cuckmere Haven. Now, it turns abruptly east and flows along for about a third of the length of the east beach as seen below. It actually appears far more natural!
This has arisen due to a decision by the Environment Agency not to carry out further work on river maintenance south of the A259 unless there was a real threat to homes and businesses, so no maintenance of floodbanks, groynes or shingle dredging. It was understood that the EA did intend to maintain some existing structures after the above decision but what happened to ‘contingent evaluation’ – the value of a rural, landscape experience to visitors, high in my opinion for the meanders at the Seven Sisters Country Park.
This decision takes account of their limited budget due to government budget cuts and the inevitability of losing the fight against sea level change from global climatic processes. There is not the money to protect a relatively small amount of grazing land when many communities across the country are under real threat. The river estuary if left to the forces of nature will change as pictured below, this being taken two years ago.
Within the last two days, an excavator has appeared on site presumably to clear out the original man-made channel and reduce the overall height of the river back up through the valley, this presumably being paid for by the local water catchment board?
Flooding to the north of the A259 (picture above) though not unconnected with the above is largely due to when the east riverbank was rebuilt during the 1960’s and the then East Sussex River Board coming under pressure from the local farmers to install the new sluices at a very low level. (I was informed of this fact recently by a retired former senior ESRB drainage engineer). It means that the river-side flaps of the 4? sluices are unable to open because they’ve become buried by silt due to their low positioning.
As the Sussex Pony Grazing & Conservation Trust is probably about to cease operation, lets send them out on a well pubicised high! Help Simon King, John Craven and Cerys Matthews to choose the favourite to feature on the front cover of the 2020 Countryfile Calendar. So ring the tel number below to register your vote for the Exmoors grazing at Belle Tout!
My choice is: ‘Pony Trek’ by Ashley Hemsley.
Postscript to this thread: I recently sent this e-mail to BBC Countryfile concerning the winning entry.
I have lived and worked in conservation for 40 years…
Despite its English name of Common Butterwort this plant is rare in southern England, indeed, this tiny colony is the only colony in East Sussex. After a while today hunting within the Ashdown Forest SSSI we eventually re-discovered it again. Still only six plants – the same as four years ago but, all these tiny plants in flower or are about to.
This month you may be surprised to know, that is the 50th anniversary of the Countryside Act 1968, which allowed for the creation of our Country Parks. These have played a crucial part in allowing people to visit the countryside, spend the day exploring, getting away from the hustle and bustle, or perhaps to introducing their young families to the great outdoors.
There are more than 400 recognised Country Parks in England and Wales, attracting millions of visitors a year. The majority are owned and run by local authorities but there is a real risk that cuts to green space budgets for staff, maintenance and a lack of funding and investment will mean that increasingly, some country parks will and indeed are facing decline in the coming years.
Recently, there were two article on the BBC’s Countryfile programme of August 12th 2018 highlighting the dilemma of East Sussex County Council (ESCC). From its budget of £371M per year, its 10 countryside sites cost in the region of £400K per year – and that is currently with insufficient staff to carry out all the necessary work. The two largest sites that they manage are the Seven Sisters Country Park at Exceat near Seaford and Chailey Common Local Nature Reserve, (the latter which they do not own). The ESCC is currently reviewing how to manage these important sites in the future bearing in mind that in the coming financial year they have got to find another £17M of savings. See the following link for further details:
Of particular concern to me is the Seven Sisters Country Park – one of the earlier and larger country parks created; it is already being poorly managed through government-induced cuts incurred by ESCC and a lack of supervision of the huge subsidy that the current farm tenant receives because of the emasculation of the government’s own conservation organisation, English Nature. The conservation value of this Country Park now falls far below of what it was decades ago. Options to be considered leading on from the above report include various combination of shared responsibility to the out-right sale of the property.
I have worked in countryside management and conservation for 40 years, half of that time being closely involved with the Seven Sisters Country Park. Based upon that experience and in particular having worked with both the front runners for involvement in the Country Park – the Sussex Wildlife Trust and The National Trust, I would say after careful consideration and without reservation, that The National Trust’s involvement with managing at least, the landscape and conservation elements of this large and popular countryside site would be far and away my preferred option. The National Trust already has a large landholding within the vicinity of the Seven Sisters Country Park – Birling Gap, Crowlink, Gayles Farm, Exceat Salting, half of Chyngton Farm, Frog Firle and The Clergy House. They have the in-house experience of managing buildings and visitor services, they holding an international reputation in this field. They also have an outstanding countryside team based at Birling Gap who manage their wider countryside estate, which has access to a wide field of specialist advisers – archaeology, farm management, vegetation etc.
Saturday, July 7th. Had a beautiful, enjoyable afternoon, including a trip down Memory Lane! Went to an Open Garden event in aid of the Family Support Group at The Long House in West Dean near Seaford. The owners have over the past six years created an extensive, beautiful but compartmentalised cottage garden containing a wide variety of plants.
After, we visited the nearby churchyard and church. I used to know the village well and a number of its then inhabitants when I lived and worked over the hill at Exceat during the 1970’s and 1980’s.
Upon leaving the village spotted one of the last fair-sized elms in the area starting to die from Dutch Elm Disease. Further up the valley at Lullington and especially sad for me, one of the last sizable elms has at last surrendered to this dreadful disease. It is the only example in the area of a Smooth-leaved Elm of the variety diversafolia.
I managed the East Sussex Dutch Elm Control project between 1997 and 2004. Due to mis-management and cost-cutting, it unraveled two years later and failed, after a total of some 30 something years and the expenditure of millions of pounds of public money.
Controversy has just hit the tv screens of Sussex after the the BBC SEToday article concerning the culling of deer on the Ashdown Forest…
After having hunted lynx and the wolf to extinction, the fact is, that Man is now the top predator. I have some knowledge of this subject… On a large area of land neighbouring Ashdown Forest, in which I was involved in the course of my work, culling commenced some five years ago. The removal of selected deer including old and injured animals by experienced stalkers, has led to the remaining deer population now being in a healthier condition with them having more to eat. A second bonus has been that the woodland and flora are now starting to recover from decades of over-grazing – I have witnessed that with my own eyes.
Thirdly, this has locally reduced the numbers of deer involved in road traffic accidents. This came close to me several years ago when my wife narrowly escaped serious injury from involvement with a deer – within an urban 30mph speed limit area. This collision wrote-off her car.